I call this New Orleans Style Macaroni & Cheese because I’m pretty sure it’s the only place that serves it this way. Never seen it in the rest of the country and definitely not in Italy, even though it’s made by Sicilians and features bucatini noodles (and for those who don’t know they’re the ones with the hole in the middle).

The History

No, it’s purely local and absolutely delicious. And to be precise it’s not exactly from New Orleans proper but from “da parish.” That would be St. Bernard Parish, the parish that’s just south of Orleans and extends right out into the Gulf along with its sister parish, Plaquemines. They are home to various immigrant communities but towards the end of the 19th century attracted thousands of Sicilians who put down roots in the swampy soil and have been thriving ever since. In fact, they’re so established that they immigrate from there to points beyond.

I’ll never forget having dinner with some friends from work in New York where it came up. One of us had a husband who’d emigrated from England at which point another person piped up, “Well my grandparents emigrated from Sicily. A little place called Plaquemini.” I kid you not. Before I could stop myself I spit laughed my drink all over the appetizers and was greeted with blank looks until I explained the coordinates of “Plaquemini.”

But on to the topic at hand. I was introduced to this version (the one & only) at Rocky & Carlos restaurant by my father who used to frequent Angelo’s bar down the road. Angelo’s was decidedly not femme friendly and so when the owners and their wives committed to a full-service restaurant they included “Ladies Invited” on the front window, and although I was a very little lady, I was in. The portions were so big we would get one meal plus an extra plate and I’d pick off Daddy’s.

My favorite was the mac n’ cheese and this version is my version, the biggest difference being the crunchy topping but if you’re an R & C purist you can leave that off. As long as you get it browned under the broiler you’re good.

The Prep

I use cheddar and fontina in equal portions both in the sauce and on top of the finished dish. I make the sauce first and set it aside with the pot lid on while cooking the pasta. It’s an easy bechamel white sauce and when it’s cooked to the right thickness remove it from the heat. If it’s really hot, let it cool for a few minutes. The sauce only needs to be hot enough to melt the grated cheese, which you should stir in gradually until just melted and incorporated into the sauce. Do not add the cheese to the sauce while it’s is still sitting over the heat, as that can cause the cheese to overcook, start to separate, and turn your sauce into an oil-slicked, curdled-looking mess. Don’t ask me how I know this – even experienced cooks can forget to cut the heat – and once curdled it’s not salvageable. And if you don’t have fontina you may use all cheddar or cheddar and jack cheese. Play it by ear.

The Noodles

Once you’ve made the sauce, start the noodles to boiling remembering to boil them a minute or two less than package directions as they will continue to cook when they’re put in the oven to brown.

While they’re boiling melt the butter in a saucepan and add the panko stirring to completely coat.

Now drain the noodles, fold into the sauce, transfer to a serving dish, top with the crumbs and put in a 400-degree oven for ten minutes or until brown on top. You may also serve in individual chafing dishes as I’ve pictured here. This one is shallow and about five inches in width. The recipe will fill four of these if you go that route.

Enjoy and don’t forget to give a silent thanks to the Tommaseo/Gioe family for inventing this and feeding us all since 1965.