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Creole Style Garbure

January 15, 2015 by Carine Clary Leave a Comment

Creole Garbure

The History

Garbure is the old French way of making a soup out of greens, white beans, and stew meat. This Creole Garbure is from Maylie’s Restaurant and adapted from the recipe of Mme. Esparbé.

I like to think of this on some level as liquid cassoulet because it’s a variation on the theme of white navy beans and seasoning meat. The original preparations in France used preserved duck or goose confit instead of the ham hock that has become common in Louisiana.

The Prep

It’s a winter dish so it’s going to have dark greens like kale or collards or cabbage (or all three) and whatever else strikes your fancy. As is the case with all soups, amounts of the vegetables are somewhat fungible. You might have only kale or only cabbage, that’s ok. Use this as a guide and scour the fridge for leftovers to include. Make sure the seasoning meat be it pork or poultry is on the bone. This makes for a silkier and more nutritious broth. The potato chunks should be on the large side if you want them to hold up during reheating.

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Creole Garbure

Garbure
 
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Author: Carine Clary
Recipe type: Soup
Cuisine: Creole
Ingredients
  • 1 pork shank (also called ham hock) about 1 lb.
  • 1 lb. andouille, grilled & sliced into half rounds or quarters
  • 1½ cups small white navy beans, soaked in water for 30 minutes
  • 1 large bunch kale
  • 1 cup chopped green cabbage
  • 1 medium diced onion (white or yellow)
  • 3 small cloves garlic, diced
  • 2 medium carrots, scraped & diced large
  • 2 sprigs thyme (or 1 tsp. dried thyme)
  • 3 cloves
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ½ tsp. cayenne pepper (or red pepper flakes)
  • 2 cups peeled & diced potatoes about 1" in size
  • chopped parsley for garnish
Instructions
  1. Simmer the shank in 6 cups of water for about an hour.
  2. Fry the onion & garlic in a little butter or oil till clear, about five minutes. Set aside.
  3. Cut up the andouille and fry in a skillet until browned. Remove and drain on paper towels and set aside.
  4. Remove the central membrane and stems from the kale and shred. Boil for a few minutes in water, then discard the water. This eliminates the bitterness.
  5. Now add the soaked beans, vegetables, thyme, cloves, and bay leaf to the ham broth. Add the drained kale and chopped cabbage.
  6. Simmer on a very low heat for an hour and a half. Add the potato dice and cooked andouille about 20 minutes before serving.
  7. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve with garlic bread.
Notes
If you've prepared some duck or goose confit and have an extra leg and thigh portion you can substitute that for the ham hock. It's my favorite way of making this soup although it's fallen somewhat out of fashion.
You may substitute a can of white beans if you like.
You can substitute for the onion, one half diced onion and two diced leeks.
Also optional is a teaspoon of juniper berries.
3.4.3177

Filed Under: Creole, Soups Tagged With: creole garbure, garbure, white bean and kale soup

Apple Cake

January 5, 2015 by Carine Clary 4 Comments

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Apple Cake. Better known in these parts (Casa Clary that is) as Speedy Apple Cake, One Layer Apple Cake, German Style Apple Cake, or One Bowl Apple Cake. It’s the cake you make when the human locusts that constitute your family members are clamoring for something sweet and there are no cake or brownie mixes at hand. This is better anyway not to mention that it both looks and smells wintry.

It’s the flatter faster sister of the monster apple bundt cake that never seems to cook all the way through.

The Prep

The version here differs from many others because it’s a little moister and it has much less cinnamon. Most recipes have two teaspoons of cinnamon which is too crazy much. Completely overwhelms the apples. If you’re that into it get candy apples or snort the cinnamon before you eat the cake. On the other hand, pumpkin pie spice is great because it’s a little bit of a lot of different spices and the subtle interplay enhances the apple flavor without destroying it. And if you don’t have pumpkin pie spice, substitute the same amount of cinnamon. Just don’t overdo it (unless you have unfulfilled cinnamon addiction issues).

The Apples

Now get out your one mixing bowl and remember – even for a cake this simple there are variations. You can use any kind of apple but I prefer the harder tarter versions like Granny Smith or Golden apples. If you’re unsure just give it a good squeeze. It should feel very firm.

As for the vegetable oil use whatever is on hand. Lighter versions of vanilla scented olive oil are also fine and if you have a lemon-flavored olive oil that can make for an interesting variation.

Stir it up and…

So what are you waiting for? Find that one bowl, fill it with good things and enjoy!

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When halved this cooks up well in a six-inch by 2-inch little pan. Perfect for a light quick cake for four. Here it is below with some toasted almonds up top:

Apple Cake

Apple Cake
 
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Author: Carine Clary
Cuisine: Southern
Ingredients
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ½ cup light olive oil (or vegetable oil)
  • 2½ tsps. vanilla
  • ½ tsp. pumpkin pie spice, scant
  • ¼ tsp. salt
  • 2 cups apples, cored, peeled, and sliced (any kind but a tart Granny Smith is best)
  • lemon zest to taste
  • 1¼ cups flour
  • 2 tsps. baking powder
  • powdered sugar for dusting
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350.
  2. Grease a 9 X 2 inch cake pan or spring form pan. Line with a circle of greased parchment paper if you have it. If not, grease and flour the pan.
  3. Peel and slice the apples squeezing a little lemon juice on them to keep from turning brown.
  4. Combine all ingredients except the flour and soda and mix well either in a mixer or with a spoon.
  5. Stir baking soda into flour and mix into the wet ingredients.
  6. Spoon into cake pan and lay the apple slices around the edge. Leftover pieces may be chopped and put in the center.
  7. Bake for about 45 minutes or until a toothpick come out clean.
  8. After it cools, dust with powdered sugar.
Notes
This dough is fairly thick so just spoon it into the pan.
You can substitute bourbon or rum for the vanilla.
If desired you can zest some of the lemon into the batter before adding the flour.
3.4.3177

Filed Under: Cakes, Creole, Desserts, Thanksgiving Tagged With: apple cake, German apple cake, one layer apple cake

Coleslaw with Boiled Dressing

January 3, 2015 by Carine Clary Leave a Comment

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Cooked out? Suffering from post-holiday baking and roasting fatigue? Yes and yes?

Then make a pit stop at your local purveyor of rotisserie chicken, ribs, or brisket and pair that meal with some of this slaw and you’re good to go. Unlike all the things you ate during the holidays it’s healthy but it’s still tasty so you’re not going to be suffering from flavor withdrawal.

For years I experimented with different coleslaw dressings only to be disappointed with the flavor or the consistency. Even when it tasted ok it would go all watery at warp speed which is fatal for leftovers. Most restaurants seem to wrestle with this problem since the really good slaws are few and far between.

I had always stayed away from boiled dressings because…you know…they’re boiled and that’s a pain. But the persistent mediocrity of my previous efforts forced me to try this and guess what? It’s not only not a pain, it’s extremely easy and fast.

It’s dry ingredients plus wet ingredients stirred over a double boiler for a couple and it’s done. Since egg yolks are the binding agent it cooks very very fast – perfect for ADD salad fans. The other perfect thing about this dressing is the fact that you can make it, keep it in the fridge for 4 or 5 days, and add it as needed to individual salads. I keep it in a separate jar and as you can see below it’s hovering out of focus in the background behind the undressed slaw. However, if you go ahead and make enough salad to use up the whole thing at once it will stay creamy in the fridge for up to a day.

So toss and enjoy something healthy until the next holiday glutton fest!

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Coleslaw with Boiled Dressing
 
Print
Author: Carine Clary
Cuisine: Southern
Ingredients
  • For the salad:
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Scallions (or chives)
  • Red Bell Pepper
  • For the dressing:
  • 1 tsp. dry mustard
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • ½ cup water
  • 2 egg yolks, beaten
  • 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 3 tablespoons heavy cream
  • ½ tsp. celery seed
  • Ground pepper to taste
Instructions
  1. For the salad:
  2. Shred cabbage fine
  3. Grate carrot & bell pepper on a box grater
  4. Slice scallions (green & white parts)
  5. For the dressing:
  6. Put dry ingredients into top of double boiler
  7. Add water and mix well (no lumps should remain)
  8. Add egg yolks and vinegar
  9. Place over boiling water and stir until thickened. This happens quickly.
  10. Once thickened take off the flame and add butter. When it is fully incorporated add heavy cream.
  11. Add pepper & celery seed.
  12. Refrigerate.
Notes
You may shred the ingredients in a food processor, but it looks better and has a better consistency if shredded on a box grater or mandolin.
If you do not have a double boiler use a heavy stainless steel pan and cook the dressing over a very low heat. If it does over cook and you get some curdling, just strain it and it will be fine.
Parsley may be added to the dressing after it has cooled.
Other good additions are shredded celeriac and radish.
This dressing can also be used in place of mayonnaise in potato salad.
3.4.3177

 

Filed Under: Salads, Southern, Vegetables Tagged With: coleslaw

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About Me

Hello, I'm Carine Clary and I'm the FrangloSaxon.

And is that a word? In a word - Yes! It reflects my French connections in the south part of the state and the Anglo Saxon ones on the Arkansas state line. I grew up eating & loving all the foods of Louisiana and the idea is to collect lots of them right here on this website.

What you'll find here is food that reflects everybody's cooking. Creole we know. Cajun we know. But how about Croatian or Vietnamese....or Italian or German....or the underestimated plain Southern food they do so well in the upstate parishes?

They're all part of who we are so pull up your chair and join me for some good eats!

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